Niche Blueprint - The Latest Buzz

If the Niche Blueprint is what it claims to be, then Tim Godfrey and Steven Clayton have done every aspiring Internet Merchant the greatest favour

Niche Blueprint? - What have Tim Godfrey and Steven Clayton Done Now?

If you have been following the latest buzz on the up and coming
new product then you know what they have done.

They have created a e-commerce sytem called Nice Blueprint that
shows you how to make a pile of cash with niche stores.

You don’t have a lot of time to sit on the fence about this one.

There will be a small window of opportunity for you to make up
mind about buying niche blueprint. It will be on sale begining
January 12th and last until January 18th or they sell out which
ever comes first.

If the success of their last product launch Commission Blueprint
is an indicator then you must move fast.

Over 150,000 people have watched the prelaunch videos giving a indepth
explanation of the course. The Niche Blueprint review was received
well, so I’m quite sure the available spots will go fast.

The sale may be over before the 18th of January.

There will be many Affiliates promoting Niche Blueprint Bonuses
to help create a mad rush that will cause some that hesitate to
grab at air missing their chance completely.

The benefits of having a system like Niche Blueprint is you don’t have
to be an expert in the many areas that give most newbies trouble making
money.

If you don’t have a email lists its ok. No product of your own? Its ok
too.

You don’t have to have any joint venture partners, any internet marketing
experience, any web design skills, and you don’t even need any additional
investments.

These things usually present a road block or two and usually take months
if not years to get everything learned and mastered to where people are
able to begin making cash.

This is why what Tim Godfrey and Steven Clayton have created is so remarkable.

Niche Blueprint will show you how to find the right market to go into and
how to get the traffic that will convert so that you will be able to generate
the income that will allow you to provide your own job security.

When you are able to find a market with niche blueprint, get a website setup
and shoot straight to the top of the rankings with google and get that free
laser targeted traffic it just gets easier.

If you have struggled before and don’t know why you haven’t been able to make
the huge sums of money you hear about other people making it is not your
fault.

The truth is you just didn’t have the total package. If you think you will be
able to spend a few dollars and make millions on line let me help bring you into
reality.

You will have some expenses (reasonable) but all viable business models do.

Niche Blueprint brings all the pieces togther quickly so that the learning
curve is shortend and you get the hang of things fast.

If you are the type that learns from videos with someone showing you what steps
to take you will love Niche Blueprint. If you like to read the information and
work your way through it then the niche blueprint course will be perfect for you
also.

Niche Blueprint is broken up into modules with specific task laid out for you to
follow.

There are series of videos and manuals that you can use in conjunction with each
other to get you up to speed faster than you may have thought possible.

If you couple that with the access to the state of the art software and the Live
Coaching that you will have now you can begin to see why the bold claims are being
made about what anyone will be able to do with this system in their hands.

So if you would like to begin making large sums of cash online then don’t wait
or even be distracted by some of the Niche Blueprint Bonuses that you may see.

The system is in need of nothing else. So What are you waiting for. Go Grab your
Niche Blueprint and begin building your niche site empire.

Niche Blueprint

Niche Blueprint

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Niche Blueprint Review & Bonus

Another review of the Niche Blueprint by Tim Godfrey and Steven Clayton launching on the 12th January 2009

Niche Blueprint Review & Bonus

Niche Blueprint

Niche marketing is easily one of the most profitable ways to make money online today.Not only that it can be considered the sipliest and fastest paths to cash for internet marketers.

If you want to see how exactly simple this is, simple as one little idea to 6 figure automated income then you really owe it to yourself to check out “Niche Blueprint”. You’ll be blown away like I was…

Niche Blueprint

TIM GODFREY and STEVE CLAYTON

Just exactly who are Tim and Steve? Not so long ago they wer not not on anyone’s radar. Now a few short months later and 1000’s and 1000’s of sales of Commission Blueprint, they are now promoted by the likes of Alex Goad and Frank Kern as the greatest thing since sliced bread on the net!

For the very first time, Tim and Steve are revealing their foolproof formula for E-Commerce success.That is computer-speak for totally dominating just about any niche at will.They will show you exactly how to make the real job ending cash from every nook and cranny on the internet.

Imagine having a foolproof system such as theirs? You could virtually set up shop anywhere and start almost immediately making online profits from any niche.

Let me clarify this completely for you. Don’t mistake this as one of those other flimsey little ebooks that only shows you half of what to do….this is a ‘beefy’ profit sucking online income course that will not leave you hanging for more!

Niche Blueprint is a jam-packed course and coaching program for folks dead-serious about making real income on the net.

Watch this very informative video:

FREE VIDEO

Foolproof Formula & the Inventor

What do I mean by formula? Well, I don’t mean preparation H or some “old-fart” cream, or a secret recipe for chicken…..

What I am talking about is The formula for Niche Marketing Online.

You know that this type of online marketing has been talked about and tossed around for several years…niche marketing is a primary engine of many online money making systems today. Bottom line it works when properly applied.

The simple truth is that niche marketing is accessible to virtually everyone or I should say to anyone THAT HAS A SOLID PLAN…

Let mention this… Tim and Steve have quickly become the most successful niche marketers on the planet.They have run multi-million dollar AdWords campaigns for big corporate giants in their past cushy corporate jobs.

They have mastered the art of niche marketing with such diverse areas like bird cages and have made it into an exact science. In fact, they just recently flipped the bird cage site for $173,000!!

Here’s the scoop, niche markets are where the action and big moolah ($$’s) is located, proven beyond a shadow of doubt.

What Tim and Steve have done is taken all the guess work out of the picture. A formally complex and tidous process has been made simple for you. It is literally plug and play.

Bonus for the first 25

Niche Blueprint is an expensive course and spots are limited to close to a 1000 people. It will more than likely sell out in hours…

Decide to get on the fast track to online Internet niche riches with me today and I have lined up some ‘real’ bonuses that Steve and Tim have authorized me to give.

These are actually several very powerful and unique bonuses that are specifically designed around Steve and Tim’s Niche Blueprint.Here is a quick run down of what they are…

1.Traffic Secrets PDF

2. Niche Blueprint Affiliate Secrets 1 & 2

3.Word Press Direct Secrets Video

4.PLR Secrets Video

All of these are exclusive to those acquiring Niche Blueprint only and through me. I can only allow the first 25 to snap up these valuable bonuses.

How to Stake your Claim to the Bonuses

Niche Blueprint will go live at 12 noon EST on Monday. As mentioned the bonuses are only going to be around for the first 25 lucky folks who grab their spots. As Commission Blueprint has been so highly visible and successful, I am sure that Niche Blueprint will sell out fast. So,time is of the essence, act fast.

1.Place your order through one of my approved links.
2.Email me your receipt at marketingdotmurrayatgmaildotcom
3.Allow the dust to settle so that I can verify with Tim and Steve then we will get that out to you.

Niche Blueprint

Niche Blueprint

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CB Bonus Domination - Highlights

Overview and Highlights of the Jeff Czyzewski Clickbank Affiliate Bonus Management System, CB Bonus Domination to be launched on the 14th January 2009

CB Bonus Domination - A breif overview of the highlights for this product

Although CBBD is especially made to help affiliates get over the free bonus hurdle I think that it can also be used by publishers.  It has a bonus distribution system that makes giving your bonuses out to your clients easy as pie and I think that it can totally be used by publishers to get their content out to their clients as well.

Ohh ya and one more thing;  Jeff Czyzewski is also ready to share a little secret part of clickbank with us because we bought CBBD.  Its a little known and totally usable part of clickbank that surprised me because they should tell everyone about it.

Ok so here is the skinny.  What is in CBBD?

Clickbank Bonus Domination is broken down into 2 main sections.

The first is called Bonus Domination Blueprint which is the part of the course which teaches and allows you to be able to come up with bonuses to any niche on the fly.  It is said to make it a breeze so you will never be racking your head again.

Then second section is called the distribution system and this is the part of the course where you get the software suite.  It allows you to automate the delivery process of bonuses to your affiliates so you do not have to track receipts and manually send bonuses for yourself anymore.
i am sure that most affiliate marketers out there would agree that making tracking and delivering your bonuses takes a lot of your time and it really would be a whole lot easier without it.
This is where clickbank bonus domination really shines and can help you like it has helped me.  If you are an affiliate marketer like me and struggle with the bonus creation and distribution then I highly recommend at least looking into this product a little further.

So if you want a real honest review of the products and it’s faults, if any, you can see them here at this guys review called clickbank bonus domination.

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Niche Blueprint Reviewed

Stephan of howtoearnmoneyontheinternet.com Reviews the Niche Blueprint by Tim Godfreys and Steve Clayton to be launched on the 12th January 2009

Niche Blueprint Review - the new Product by Tim Godfrey and Steve Clayton

The niche blueprint has already generated a kind of hype in the Internet Marketing world, a lot of Niche Blueprint Reviews have been released already with the offer of a lot of bonuses, even though hasn’t even launched. NicheBlueprint launches on January 12, 2009 and will be open for one week. Tim Godfreq and Steve Clayton are relatively unknown in the Internet Marketing world, but both gain more and more popularity in the Internet Marketing community. Steve Clayton and Tim Godfrey launched their first product roughly 5 months ago. Commissin Blueprint is their flagship so far.

Taking Commission Blueprint as a benchmark for a Niche Blueprint review, we can hope for another great product. Their previous product Commission Blueprint is known as a product that is well explained, step-by-step. A dozen of videos provides an excellent insight into the world of an affiliate and is a great start for someone who is starting out in Internet Marketing.

Niche Blueprint is a slightly different product, both from the content and the way it is taught. First Niche Blueprint is about creating an E-commerce website within a well researched niche. Second this time the product is taught in a classroom like style over a period of a few weeks.

I personally look forward to Steve Clayton’s and Tim Godfreys new product because I know from first-hand experience that both of them deliver an excellent product and that they also have an excellent support. Usually it takes them only hours to get back with questions.

To all your success!

Stephan

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Reviewing SitStayFetch

The SitStayFetch dog training program covers much more than most other dog training programs as supported by the following review by Denise Duncan

Reviewing the Sit Stay Fetch Dog Training Program

What is Sit Stay Fetch? Is it a good dog training program. What features does this program offer? These and other questions will be answered in the following article.

One of the more popular dog training programs is called SitStayFetch. Though it is popular, is it one of the best programs for training your dog? Is it really useful to the average new dog owner who would like to train his new pet?

Owning a new dog means greater responsibility to teach and train him, especially since most new owners get puppies. Training a new puppy takes time and know-how. Most new dog owners just settle for teaching their new puppy to “sit” even though there are numerous dog training programs available to give instruction and guidance on what and how to train a dog. Often, these dog owners will look for a dog training program only after their yard or furniture has been destroyed and they are seeking immediate help and want immediate results.

With proper dog training, plants and furniture can be saved and also a strong bond is created between dog owners and their pets. Well trained dogs are a joy to be around and they are happier and feel less anxiety in their new home.

The author of SitStay, Daniel Stevens, has created what he feels is a very thorough program for dog training. His program includes a range of command training, how to deal with dog behavior problems, and also teachings about dog grooming.

Beyond the basic “sit” command, SitStayFetch includes training for many other commands such as stay, roll over, fetch, heel, no, wait, crawl, jump, down, shake, and catch. As you can see, these commands range from basic and advanced commands. He outlines in very clear terms how to train your dog with simple and consistent command training. Many have found the instructions easy to understand and follow in trying to train their pet by themselves.

As stated above, SitStayFetch also gives instruction on how to train dogs that have acquired some bad habits. The program covers behaviors such as digging holes, chewing, and other destructive habits, emotional issues such as separation anxiety and jealousy, and also aggressive behaviors such as biting, nipping and fighting with other dogs. The SitStayFetch program also has limited consultation included if your dog problem is not sufficiently addressed which is a great plus.

Due to the popularity of Cesar Millan’s book, dog whispering is a term that has become well known among dog owners. As you might suspect, the SitStayFetch program is up to speed with this current approach to dog training as well. Other bonuses are included with the program. You’ll find good information and instruction on dog grooming, alpha dominance, and housetraining for a more complete dog training and dog care program.

The Sit Stay Fetch dog training program is very comprehensive and easy to follow. It is well worth the money to purchase SitStayFetch especially if you are a new dog owner. The time, money, and patience you put into training your new pet will be worth the it to have a trusted and well trained companion for life.

By Denise Duncan
Published: 2/28/2008
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Sit Stay Fetch: A Review

A review by Dog obedience on the sit stay fetch dog barking approach, also covering dog obedience and other dog problems

Sit Stay Fetch: A Review

Most people that own dogs know that training their dog will help establish a tighter bond with their friendly canine. Many methods for training a dog exist nowadays. One top training package, Sit Stay Fetch, effectively helps dog owners teach their dogs good behavior and obedience. Sit Stay Fetch: A Review Most dog owners know that the experience of training their dog has or will continue to establish a better relationship with their canine friend. Nearly all owners don’t have an innate ability to train their dog in the most effective ways. They have to get the help of a friend, book, tutorial and/or training class. How does one know what the best method is for you and your dog? The path to effective training often takes many roads fraught with mistakes, bad techniques, and necessary re-training. However, problems like these can definitely be reduced by learning from an expert’s knowhow. Numerous books and tutorials (some listed at Dog Training Reviews) exist that teach dog owner effective training methods. Some are definitely better than others. Having dogs and being around them my whole life, I have read and implemented tons of tutorial training methods (some of them on this dog training reviews site). However, currently I want to talk about one of those called “Sit Stay Fetch” by Daniel Stevens. This training package, I found, holds a top spot amongst many dog training tutorials I have come across. Let me briefly tell what information comes in this dog training tutorial. First, a selection of Training Commands that are effectively explained in this package include: Sit Come “Okay” and “No” Roll Over Seek (Find) Hold and Leave Sit and Stay (Advanced) Beg Down Fetch Heel (Stages 1 to 3) Shake Crawl Wait Jump Catch Climb Stand He also goes into detail covering common and uncommon dog problems including biting and nipping, aggression, jealousy, separation anxiety, destructive behavior, digging holes, disobedience, fights with other dogs, and many more. He covers every base you could possibly think of but if you do have any questions or something that needs to be explained to your liking, he gives some free consultation also. Though the information he teaches you would definitely be enough to justify the cost of this training package, he throws in extra bonuses. These include books such as “Secrets to Becoming an Alpha Dog”, “Tips on Security Training Your Dog”, and “Dog Grooming Made Easy”, “All the Housetraining Methods and Tricks.” Some of the parts I like especially are getting your dog to not eat poop, keep him from tugging on the leash and dog whispering. Let’s talk about this poop eating thing. Believe me because I have been there, some dogs will just love to eat poop. I have no idea why. Maybe it’s the nutrients that are left over. Anyway, do you know what likely happens when he does eat it? He throws it up later. If you have not had to clean this up, just think about cleaning it up off of your living room carpet. It is simply disgusting I tell you. Having a way to rid him of this problem is heaven. Then there is that leash tugging annoyance. I just hate walking a dog that tugs on the leash. I stop this problem as soon as possible. Walking a dog that stays by your side most all of the way makes for a pleasant and relaxing walk. Daniel effectively teaches how to do this. Dog whispering must be a relatively new thing. I bet it is a takeoff from the “horse whispering” methods. I haven’t implemented this myself but I will try it once I get the time. I have to admit it is very intriguing. You have to read it for yourself so as to not giveaway any secrets. The “Sit Stay Fetch” dog training information package remains one that I highly recommend. It definitely covers all the bases. Not only is it comprehensive but the author effectively teaches you how to implement the methods also. Some other training methods exist that I have used and liked but Sit Stay Fetch ranks there at the top. So if you want to command obedience from your dog, remove a pain-in-the-neck dog problem, save money by not having to pay a boatload of money to train your dog, or need dog training methods that actually work, I think Sit Stay Fetch will definitely help you reach your goals. Follow this link, Sit Stay Fetch for more information on “Sit Stay Fetch” or get some free information on training your dog at this Dog Training Obedience site. Other general dog information can be found at Puppies and Dogs.

By Arland Kent Published: 7/26/2006
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Dog licking - Sitstayfetch tells you all about it.

Dog Licking can be an embarrasing problem, but the Sit Stay Fetch Dog training Ebook tells us how to handle this problem

Licking: affectionate, disconcerting, or just plain disgusting?

Dog Licking

Dog Licking

For us humans, it can be a bit difficult to identify with the doggie habit of licking one another in greeting.

We don’t do it, after all, and though our tongues come in handy for things like ice-cream eating and sucking that last dollop of peanut butter off the knife, we certainly wouldn’t welcome a visitor into our home by giving them a long, lingering lick on the cheek (unless you were brought up to embrace certain social mores currently unheard of in Western society).

Dogs use their tongues to explore the world.

A dog’s tongue is as important (and useful) to him as our eyes and hands are to us: it’s a multi-purpose utility tool, used to taste things, explore the presence of new people and animals, express submissiveness, and to let you know that he values your companionship and friendship.

Licking is a completely natural behavior for dogs, and most of the time, the experience isn’t something to worry about: the odd lick from a warm, moist tongue on your hand or ankle is, at worst, tolerable (and, I must admit, I actually find it pretty adorable when my dog licks me – but then again, he’s trained not to overdo it, so I don’t have to worry about the smothering capacities that a 100-pound male Rottweiler’s tongue possesses!)

Some dogs just take things too far though, and this is where problems can set in. It’s not pleasant to be persecuted in your own home by a far-reaching, agile, mobile, and slobbery tongue: some won’t let you get a moment’s rest, but will pursue you from bedroom to hallway to lounge to kitchen, making sporadic dive-bombings of affection on your toes, ankles, calves – anywhere that flesh is exposed and available. And for a tall dog, the available terrain is much more varied, and thus, enticing – ever had a long, wet dog’s tongue lathering your bellybutton as you stretch up to those elusive top shelves? When unexpected, the resultant shock is more than a trifle unbalancing!

Plenty of dogs won’t restrict themselves to your skin alone, either, and owners of these dogs will attest to the always-visible consistency of dog saliva on clothing: whether your outfit is black, white, or any of the myriads of shades in between, there’s nothing like a viscous patch of dog slobber on a freshly-laundered hemline to advertise your ownership status (and your dog’s personal level of demonstrativeness) to the world at large. And once it’s dried, it’s there ’til the next laundry run: the physical evidence of a dog’s friendship is like egg white.

It’s there, it’s dried on, and it’s not coming off until a combination of suds, hot water, and vigorous effort is applied. And all this because your dog wants to say “I love you”! But there’s often a bit more to it than just plain affection.

As with all animal behavior, the logic behind licking is usually more complex and subtle than you might think, and the same gesture can have multiple meanings dependent on circumstance, your dog’s state of mind, and the other behaviors being exhibited at the same time.

So, although we can postulate until the cows come home (or until your dog stops licking – whichever comes first) as to why your dog’s licking you, such generalizations aren’t always 100% accurate: it’s partly up to you to determine the reasoning behind the actions. And, since you know your dog better than anyone else, you’re the ideal candidate for the job.

If your dog is licking you because he’s feeling affectionate and wants to let you know, it’ll be pretty easy to figure out whether this is the case or not. His body language will be relaxed, and although the circumstances will be variable, the surrounding mood will generally be stress-free and happy: for example, when he licks you on the shoulder or ear from his vantage-point in the backseat as you’re driving him to the park, or lathers your hands and wrists with goodwill and devotion when you return home from a hard day at the office. “Puppy love” is by far the most common cause of licking: it isn’t anything to worry about, and it’s simple to ‘cure’ him of the habit if the behavior is a problem for you. (We’ll get to that further down the page.)

Another not-infrequent reason for repetitive, owner-targeted licking is that your dog’s feeling anxious and stressed.

If there are things happening in your dog’s life to cause him unhappiness or tension, he’ll often show it through obsessive-compulsive behaviors, and licking is a pretty common manifestation of these. Some dogs will lick themselves, others will lick you – it’s really a case of individual preference. It shouldn’t be too hard for you to pinpoint the cause of your dog’s less-than-relaxed mindset: is he getting enough attention and mental stimulation, or is he cooped up inside for long hours each day by himself?

Does he get enough exercise and outdoors time for sniffing, exploration, and general exuberant tomfoolery? Do you pay him lots of attention when you’re at home, or tend to greet him hurriedly before rushing off to your next commitment?

These are all things that you’ll need to consider, before adapting your lifestyle to address the issue accordingly. Depending on the circumstances surrounding the licking, and the overall quality of your dog’s life, you may need to make some general adjustments of your own to ensure that, when the licking does stop, it’s because you’ve treated the cause, not the symptoms

  • otherwise, you’re just trying to take away a valuable outlet for his negative emotions, which is unrealistic (and unfair on your friend, too).

Perhaps you need to come home more often during the day. Perhaps you need to get up half an hour earlier in the morning to give him a more substantial pre-work walk (it varies from dog to dog, but as a general rule of thumb, most dogs function best and are at their most relaxed with an hour and a half’s exercise each day). Or maybe you just need to spend more time with him in the evenings, playing, grooming, training, and just hanging out together.

Make sure you’re paying attention to his demeanor (does he seem content?) and his activity levels before you try to get rid of the licking behavior as a stand-alone problem: even though he can’t talk, he can still use his tongue to try and tell you something, and this might be what’s happening here. Having said that though, most of the time excessive licking is simply due to excessive exuberance in your dog: he’s happy, he loves you, and he has to let you know right now.

When you want to get the point across that his licking’s getting a bit too much for you, a simple change in your body language will convey your message loud and clear. All you need to do is withdraw the outward display of your affection for him to understand that, actually, you don’t like it when he covers your skin in a composite of saliva, dog-food particulate matter, scraps of debris from his fur, and general oral-cavity detritus.

In plain English, this means that you just have to turn yourself away from him: when he starts to lick, get up and move away instantly.

Make sure your face and eyes are dramatically averted from him: face in the complete opposite direction. Preface this with a revolted-sounding “No!” if you like (I say “No lick!” but you can use whatever comes naturally.

Just keep the phrase short and easily-identifiable so your dog quickly learns to recognize it). At this point, he’ll probably get up and follow you. Wait for him to do so: the licking should start again soon. When it does, repeat the process. Withdraw all signs of affection from him again: turn away, get up and leave, and don’t pay him any attention or talk to him (apart from another “No!” in a disgusted, I-can’t-believe-you-haven’t-got-the-message-yet tone of voice).

It’s likely that your dog will be persistent. He’s not to be easily deterred; you’re the undisputed centerpiece of his life, after all, and he needs to let you know this whenever the opportunity should present itself. You just need to outmatch him in persistency.

Be consistent with your actions, and the message will sink in. Don’t feel that you have to shout or react negatively - the simple withdrawal of your love (or the appearance of this, anyway) is quite enough. A word of warning: some people really like it when dogs lick them, even if the dog concerned is not their own. If visitors to your house (or admiring passersby on the street) greet your dog and allow him to lick them, you’ll need to intervene or else they’ll undo all your good work.

It’s best if you can explain ahead of time that you’re training him not to lick, and then explain the appropriate response for them to take if he should start to lick them. This way, you can be sure that your dog’s not going to be corrupted into unwanted behaviors again – and that he’ll learn to express his affection in other, more desirable ways. For more information on licking and other problematic dog behaviors

You’ll probably want to check out SitStayFetch. It’s a comprehensive, A-Z manual for the responsible dog owner, and deals with just about every canine behavior and training technique under the sun, from aggression to digging to whining to dog whispering to obedience work.

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IMPORTANT:

The above article is a publication of Kingdom Of Pets. For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like licking), check out SitStayFetch. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link below:

http://www.noelben.com/presents/SitStayFetch

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Separation Anxiety dealt with by SitStayFetch

Separation Anxiety suffered by dogs can be a real problem with dogs who have no other company when the owner has left the house. Sit Stay Fetch Dog Training covers the subject very clearly

Separation Anxiety.

Separation Fear

Separation Fear

Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems that dogs develop.

It’s an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a state of intense panic brought on by the dog’s isolation/separation from his/her owner(s). In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly. Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content.

No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety.

There are a number of contributing causes to the condition:

- Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales

- A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these ‘shelter dogs’ have undergone significant trauma in their lives – they’ve been abandoned by their previous owners – and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn’t going to pull the same trick.

- Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they’re usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog.

- Neglect is the number-one cause of sepration anxiety for dogs. If you’re absent much more than you’re present in your dog’s life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content.

The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious.

She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving. When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour.

She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing. Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.)

This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.)

If you’re behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know it’s tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless – after all, she’s so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? - but in actuality, you’re just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day.

So she’s as happy as Larry when you return – but, when it’s time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy

when you walk out that door. Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog’s tendency towards anxiety.

Here’s a short list of do’s and don’ts: Do:

  • Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you’re leaving for work in the morning, she’ll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you’ve got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won’t see you – the person she really cares about - for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better.

  • Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew – why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy – and so she can’t smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It’ll keep her happy and occupied, and will act as a smokescreen for your departure.

  • When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it’ll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she’s got company

  • If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that’s the next best thing to being out and about in it. - Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go: jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then – without leaving! – sit back down and don’t go anywhere. Do this until she’s not reacting any more. When there’s no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and returning immediately), again doing this until there’s no reaction. Gradually work up – gradually being the operative word here! – until you’re able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her.

  • Do not: - Act overtly sympathetic when she’s crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it’s essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can’t tell that you feel sorry for her: don’t ever say, “It’s OK, good girl” when she’s upset!

If you’re interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog’s separation anxiety, you might like to check out SitStayFetch. It’s a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog’s problem behaviors. All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there’s a great section on obedience commands and tricks too.

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IMPORTANT:

The above article is a publication of Kingdom Of Pets. For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like anxiety separation), check out SitStayFetch. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link below:

http://www.noelben.com/presents/SitStayFetch

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KOP’s SitStayFetch handles dog aggression towards strangers

The Sit Stay Fetch Dog Training Guide makes us aware of the problems of dog aggression towards strangers

Handling dog aggression towards strangers

Alerted to Strangers - Aggressive stance

Alerted to Strangers - Aggressive stance

A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved.

And Mother Nature is pretty wily

  • it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct! But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place

  • and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.

Different aggression types - There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:

  • Aggression towards strangers
  • Aggression towards family members

You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right?

Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.

Aggression towards strangers

What is it? It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)

Why does it happen? There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?

What can I do about it?

The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.

How does socialization prevent stranger aggression? When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary.

It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.

The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?

Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).

In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.

Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.

This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).

Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments. Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually

For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch. It’s a complete owner’s guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog, and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership. To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look.

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IMPORTANT:

The above article is a publication of Kingdom Of Pets. For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like aggression towards strangers), check out SitStayFetch. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link below:

http://www.noelben.com/presents/SitStayFetch

 Mail this post

Posted under SitStayFetch

Recognize, prevent, and handle dog aggression towards family members with SitStayFetch

Dog Aggression towards members of the family can be a very real danger. Sit Stay Fetch Dog Training helps us recognize it and handle it.

Recognizing, preventing, and handling dog aggression

A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved.

Alert dog as described by SitStayFetch

Alert dog as described by SitStayFetch

And Mother Nature is pretty wily

  • it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct! But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place

  • and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.

Different aggression types - There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:

  • Aggression towards strangers
  • Aggression towards family members

You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right?

Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.

Aggression towards family members

There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:

  • He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).

This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.

He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family.

What’s resource guarding?

Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.

All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys. Why does it happen? It all boils down to the issue of dominance.

Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc).

To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.

This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively.

Why?

Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!) Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources.

To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.

So what can I do about it?

The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog.

Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.

You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.

If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer. - Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively

Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day).

Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled?

All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.

Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.

Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him.

This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.

Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed?

In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.

Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.

For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.

The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats. Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else!

If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.

Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)

For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch. It’s a complete owner’s guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog, and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership. To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look.

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IMPORTANT:

The above article is a publication of Kingdom Of Pets. For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out SitStayFetch. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link below:

http://www.noelben.com/presents/SitStayFetch

 Mail this post

Posted under SitStayFetch

This post was written by Noel D'Costa on December 6, 2008

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