Achieve fast success in training your Chihuahua Puppy with the dog training guide Sit Stay Fetch

“Chihuahua Puppy Training Made EASY & FAST In 5 Steps!”

Learn to train your chihuahua puppy the gentle and patient way.

1. Gentle Behavior Training.

If you want a gentle and well balanced chihuahua when it grows up you must treat your puppy with gentle training. Negative behavior must be dealt with in a consistent and kind manner, not by slapping, hitting and kicking. Positive behavior must consistently be rewarded both with praise and with treats.

A dog’s behavior may be modified at any time during it’s life. But it’s much easier to guide the dog into correct behavior patterns as a small puppy, rather than having to fix problems. It’s unfair both to the animal and the owner to let problems go unaddressed. Behavior problems will lead to frustration for both dog and owner.

2. House Training Your Chihuahua Puppy.

House training your chihuahua puppy is very important. It isn’t just that soiling the house is such a mess, which it is. If the puppy is not house trained fairly quickly, the dog ends up at another home or at least outside. It’s easy to see why proper house training is so important.

One method of training your puppy is the crate method. Confine your puppy in a crate or a small area. Puppies usually will not soil their sleeping area. Very frequently remove the puppy to an area for waste elimination. When the puppy does have an accident, you can quickly rush them to the appropriate area. But, remember, accidents will happen and do be patient and consistent.

3. Biting, Mouthing, And Chewing.

All chihuahua puppies will bite and chew on body parts and clothes. That’s just what puppies do. But early on, this painful and destructive behavior must be stopped. Adult dogs who bite and chew are a serious problem.

If the puppy has a chance to play with other puppies, the playing will naturally teach restraint in biting. Without the interaction with other dogs, you must deal with the behavior yourself. One approach is to say “ouch” , which should be easy to do, in response to puppy bites. You can use a pained expression in your voice, but not loud or angry. Then try leaving the room for a short time.

4. Barking And Whining.

Is there a real reason for the barking or whining? Are they uncomfortable? Can you find out why? There may be a good reason. Or is this blackmail? Your puppy must be taught to handle isolation and separation. They must not expect to get everything they want.

Spend plenty of time with your puppy so they feel loved and secure. But do not accept excessive noise that is irritating to the human members of the household.

5. Socialization Tips.

A properly socialized puppy is well adjusted and will be a pleasant and valuable companion. Socialization most easily occurs before the puppy is 3 months old. Make sure early experiences are not frightening nor painful. Try some of the following.

Invite friends to meet your puppy.

Invite other pets where that’s possible.

Carry your puppy to places where there are crowds of people.

Take your puppy for short car rides.

Acquaint your puppy with being bathed, brushed and inspected.

Introduce your puppy to anything and everything you wish them to be around.

There are many Chihuahua “secrets” that professional dog trainers don’t want you to know. You can find all of them here.

Al Bullington writes about rural living and home business topics from his homestead in the country, surrounded by a variety of critters.

Posted under sit stay fetch review

Interaction between the human master and his dog is the strenght of Kingdom Of Pets SitStayFetch

21st Century Dog Training Series: Tracking Equipment

Introduction of Electronic and GPS tracking equipment into the realm of Dog Training. Some difference and uses of each.

One of the most impressive things to be introduced into dog training has been the ability to track your dogs by either radio frequency equipment or by the newest GPS. When I was training, and this will probably put a date on me, the only way you had to train a big running dog was by putting spotters at different places along a section of land or by using horses and scouts. Well, for various reasons the horseback idea wasn’t really viable so therefore you had to have some really great friends with enormous senses of humor. Now with the introduction of tracking equipment you are able to spend a lot more time actually training your dog not hunting for them. Almost all Field Trailers know what I’m talking about and a lot of the everyday hunters who hunt heavy cover.

My Brother In-Law had a little Springer Spaniel, and I mean little. That dog could not have weighed in at 25 lbs. if you hung a bucket of rocks from her collar. Well there was just no way you were going to hunt her and keep her out of the cover. Which for all intents and purposes, if your dog won’t hit the cover, leave it home and go with a friend. Now there isn’t anything wrong with a dog that hunts the edges, but at some point they have to show the desire to get into it and get it done. Anyway back to point. Once this little gal got into the cover or high CRP you could not tell where she was. You couldn’t see her, you couldn’t hear her so it was extremely hard to stay with her. There is nothing more frustrating to be out of position when your dog flushes. I always hunted pointers but the same frustrations apply when hunting heavy cover or large tracts of ground.

The tracking systems have made things much easier and so much less frustrating. The radio frequency systems were the first to come on the scene. I have had several customers tell me that the systems they purchased have made their hunting in rough terrain, high cover or very large areas easy. The only draw back to the radio frequency systems, in my opinion, is that you have to always be fiddling with buttons (dials). Now that doesn’t make them any less proficient in finding and tracking your dog but there is still a lot of fiddling as far as I’m concerned. Now, the NEW GPS Tracking Systems that have just been introduced into the training arena are just absolutely unbelievable. You are able to track several dogs at once. Course you could track several dogs at once with the radio frequency systems also. But with the GPS you can keep track of locations, game, and your dogs’ actual trail. You are able to hunt areas that you have never hunted before no matter how large because you can set the GPS up to know exactly where you are and how to get back. One of the best units that I have been associated with and have actual feedback on is the Garmin Astro Combo. There are a couple of others out there but I recommend the Garmin because GPS is what they do.

In closing I would like to say that it makes no difference whether you are a Pro or Novice. These tracking systems can really help to make your hunting experience more pleasurable and rewarding. Let’s face it. The days of you and I going out and just picking a place to hunt have come to pass. We have to travel further and hunt larger areas (Public Hunting Reserves) or private Hunting Preserves. The last thing you want to do is spend several hours looking for your dog. Even close working dogs can get separated from their owners when working high or dense cover. Yes there are those who have dogs that never get lost. I don’t know any of them but I guess there are some. But having a tacking system will most assuredly help not only with your hunt but with your training as well.

Midwest Gundog
Discount Electronic Tracking and Training Collars

Posted under SitStayFetch

Daniel Stevens covers all the stages of dog training in his program SitStayFetch

5 stages of dog training

Understanding the five main stages of dog training is the key of a proper designed dog training schedule. Learn about this stages in this article.

There are five main stages of dog training:

1. Learning new behaviors
2. Generalization of learned behaviors
3. Discrimination of commands
4. Reliability of learned behaviors
5. Fluency

This article explains you these stages of dog training.

1. Learning

Its name says everything. During this stage your dog learns a new behavior. The learning stage is divided in two sub-stages: getting the behavior and introducing the command (cue).

During the “get a behavior” sub-stage, your dog actually learns a new behavior. However, no command or cue is associated with that particular behavior. For instance, your dog learns to sit when you hold a treat in your hand. While holding a treat becomes the actual cue for him to sit, it is not the final cue you will use to command him to sit.

Once you get the behavior (for instance, when your dog sits frequently), you introduce the command or cue. In other words, you must teach the behavior before the command or cue is added.

If you introduce the command/cue before your dog understands the behavior you want, he could get confused and associate that command with a different behavior. That’s why you have to introduce the command after your dog has learned the behavior.

2. Generalization of learned behaviors

Generalization is the process that teaches your dog to respond in the same way to a particular stimulus under different circumstances. This means your dog will obey your commands whether he is in your house, at the park, at the beach or everywhere. Moreover, he will respond to your commands even if there are strong distractions, such as other dogs, food, squirrels running away, etc.

To generalize a behavior, the behavior must be trained before (of course!). Then, that particular behavior must be practiced in different environments and under several conditions. In general terms, generalization consists in retraining each learned behavior in different environments and under different circumstances.

You must start the generalization of behaviors in a place that is familiar to your dog and with no distractions around. Then, you have to increase gradually the places and the distractions. Small distractions, such as moving your arms slowly, are the best ones to start this dog training stage.

The generalization will be easier and faster if you set high standards for training. In fact, several competition trainers never generalize the behavior of their dogs but they achieve good results in competitions. That happens because they set very high training standards and they train in environments that are similar to trial fields.

3. Discrimination of commands

Discrimination is the opposite of generalization. In the discrimination stage, your dog learns to perform the requested behavior even when he knows many other behaviors. In other words, if you ask for a sit, your dog must sit instead of lying down.

A dog which gets confused with different commands is a dog that has not achieved the discrimination stage. So, if your dog sits when you ask him to lie down, then he has not yet discriminated between “Sit” and “Down”. Some trainers think this is disobedience. Don’t make that mistake, this situation is not caused by disobedient or stubborn dogs; it is caused by confused dogs.

4. Reliability of learned behaviors

As its name suggests, the reliability stage consists in achieving reliable trained behaviors. So, to achieve this stage, the behaviors you taught to your dog must become habits.

Reliability is just a result of repeating and reinforcing the trained behaviors. Therefore, if your dog has successfully passed the previous stages, reliability is just a matter of time, practice and consistency.

This stage is the key to introduce trained behaviors in daily life situations, but it should not be rushed. Reliability of learned behaviors is a long term goal, so you should expect to train for some time before your dog is reliable off leash and under distractions.

5. Fluency

Fluency consists in getting “perfect” behaviors. Thus, when your dog achieves this stage, he responds to your commands as fast and as precise as it can be done.

The “perfection” of fluent behaviors depends on what you want from your dog. If you want Fido to be an obedience champion he must perform all the obedience exercises with speed and precision. However, if you just want Fido to sit on command you may not need speed and precision. In this case, it would be enough that your dog sits when you ask for it.

Although fluency is fully achieved in final stages, it should be considered together with all the other stages of dog training.

About the author

Article courtesy of Adiestramiento de perros, a section of Perros, a Spanish website about dogs managed by Rodrigo Trigosso.

Posted under SitStayFetch

Dog crate training is covered very well in the dog training eBook SitStayFetch

The Basics Of Crate Training Your Dog

I thought it’s time we had a quick chat about CRATE TRAINING.

Have you heard much about it?

Crate training is a valuable training tool that is beneficial for training young puppies and adult dogs alike. No matter what age your dog is, you will come to find that a crate can be used for many purposes.

A crate acts like a private “den” for your dog, a safe and secure place that he can go to anytime of the day. For you, the dog owner, the crate is a safe and secure place for you to keep him when you are away from home.

A crate is a safe place to keep your dog when you need to leave the house. If you do not place him in a crate, your dog will not know what to do or how to act.

Therefore, he will become anxious and nervous and will take this nervous energy out on your rugs, plants, furniture, etc. He will do all of those bad habits that a dog does when he is scared or bored: dig, bark, chew, destroy, attempt to escape, pace back and forth, etc.

Your dog’s response to the crate will all depend on how you introduce him to it.

SOME OF THE BENEFITS TO CRATE TRAINING

You”ve already learned that crate training is a safe place for your dog.

Other benefits include:

A crate can help prevent behaviors such as digging and chewing, because it will serve as a “time out” spot.

A crate provides as a safe sleeping environment for your dog so he stays put in one place at night.

A crate can be used when you can”t watch a puppy for a certain amount of time.

A crate is helpful in your dog”s house training, which you will learn about in the next chapter.

A crate helps your dog adjust to a regular schedule for sleeping, going outside, etc.

A crate is transportable so it can be moved from room to room, so your dog can always be with the rest of the family no matter where they are.

A crate can be easily transported in a car or airplane.

In order for a crate to be beneficial in any of these ways, you need to help your dog adjust to it.

Yourdog’s first experience with a crate should be positive. Once you bring him home, you will introduce him to his crate.

Have some treats and toys waiting inside, with the door closed. Walk him to his crate and he will see the goodies inside. Once he is pawing at the crate, open it up and say “yes, good boy” and let him walk inside.

Don’t close the crate door yet, just praise him for walking inside. When he exits the crate, don’t praise him. You don’t want him to think that being outside of the crate is better than being inside the crate.

Never force your dog inside the crate. He will interpret that as a form of punishment. So if you need to, toss in more treats.

Repeat the exercise a few times, each time increasing the amount of time that your dog is inside the crate. Continue to praise him. Then, start shutting the door behind him.

He may whine or bark and try to get out. If he does this, wait until he stops, then open the door to let him out. If you let him out while he is still whining or barking, he will think that you are rewarding his bad behavior. Let him in again, but this time for a shorter amount of time.

Once your dog is comfortable walking in and out of the crate, start adding the word “crate.” Then, practice the command from farther distances and keep him in for longer periods of time.

For the first few days of crate training, you should increase time by short increments, but never over 30 minutes. The only time that he should be in the crate longer is when it is time for him to go to sleep.

OK, so we have touched on the idea of “crate training” and there is still so much you should really know to best maximize you use of a crate.

For a complete crate training coarse, visit us at SitStayFetch. For large dog breed information, large dog training tips, galleries, and much more, come by and visit us at largedogbreedz.com.

Posted under SitStayFetch

Matthew Yoho writes about Crate training your dog, which is also dealt with in the SitStayFetch dog training guide

Crate Training Your Dog

Crate training your dog is beneficial both to you and your pet. Once he has gotten used to living there, he will spend most of his spare time inside it. That means, he will not get restless and destructive when you are away.

Crates are box-like structures which can easily be taken apart and reassembled and are even extremely portable. Some hotels allow pets to stay in their respective kennels, so you can take your pet along wherever you go.

How do you train your dog to use crate?

You have to be very careful while first introducing the kennel to your dog. Following some simple steps will make the experience enjoyable to your dog.

Never use force while trying to get your pet to use the crate. Always talk to him in a comforting tone and try to tempt him into it with little treats.

Never use this as a punishment – the dog shouldn’t come to fear the crate in any way.

Place your pet’s favorite things inside his kennel – soft toys, towels and blankets.

Many crates have a detachable door. You may want to fix the door till the pup has been trained. You can remove the door once he’s trained to use the crate.

It is better to purchase a crate that’s just right for your pet’s size. You can even buy a larger crate and then insert a compartment into it, to make it smaller for his present size.

In case your pup is under 3 months old, he will have no bladder control. So it is advisable to leave a stack of newspapers on one end of the crate, just in case he’s in a hurry to ease himself.

In case the pup creates a mess in the crate, do not punish him for it. Dogs care a lot about cleanliness, so he probably couldn’t help himself.

Place the crate in a room where you can always keep an eye on your pet. Don’t leave him alone in dark, empty rooms. Create a comfortable environment for your pet.

Once he starts to like his kennel, you can think of leaving him alone in there for short periods of time. Afterwards, your dog will naturally get used to the idea of being alone for longer periods of time.

Do not let your children disturb the dog when he is in his crate. He’s definitely not going to like the intrusion into his privacy!

It is best not to use the crate if your pup is under 8 weeks old, is ill, feels lonely or displays severe separation anxiety symptoms. It is also best to avoid using crates when the weather is too warm and stuffy.

Showering a lot of love on your pet is vital for his well-being. Playing by some simple pet care rules will ensure a great relationship between you and your precious little pup!

Learn more about dog training at http://www.DogTraining-AtoZ.com

By: Matthew Yoho -

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Matthew contributes articles to Dog Training A to Z on subjects such as Crate Training Your Dog and the #1 rated dog training guide Sit Stay Fetch

Posted under SitStayFetch

This article by Perry John deals with a dog’s fear of a leash, which is addressed in the dog training guide sit stay fetch

My Dog Has A Fear Of The Leash. Heres What To Do…

Exercise is a major part of our dogs’ lives.

Cesar Millan, the ‘Dog Whisperer’, tells us that to maintain a healthy relationship with our beloved pooches, that relationship should consist of 50% physical exercise, 25% discipline, and 25% affection. That’s a lot of exercise! In order for us to be able to enjoy exercising our dogs as much as they need, it’s important for them to behave well both on the lead. Unfortunately, there are many dogs out there who are afraid of the leash itself – resulting in neurotic, fearful, submissive behavior whenever the lead comes out. In this newsletter, we’ll take a look at the most effective way to deal with fear of the leash.

Fear of the Leash

The majority of the time, the sight of the leash is enough to bring on a fit of joy – the dog knows that leash = walk, and reacts accordingly.
For some dogs, though, the leash connotes fear and submissiveness more than anything else. Perhaps the leash was used in a negative way with a previous owner – as a tool for dragging the dog around. Perhaps it was used to confine the dog for long hours at a time. In some extreme cases, dogs have even been whipped with the leash as punishment. Or perhaps your dog is just very highly strung, and is prone to developing phobias seemingly arbitrarily. Although fear of the leash can have a severely negative impact on your walks with your dog, the good news is that it’s easy to cure.

You just need some patience and some basic equipment.

What you’ll need

A leash, made of webbing or leather. Approximately 5 feet (1.25 meters) is a good length, as it enables control without risk of the dog getting tangled in the leash when out walking. Chain-link leashes aren’t recommended, as they’re hard on the hands – and also can flick the dog in the face, which isn’t something you’d want to inflict on any dog, let alone one that’s suffering from fear of the leash! – A good-quality collar, again made of leather or nylon webbing. If you’re using one with a snap-lock, make sure it’s safety-approved and won’t come undone under pressure. Slip-chain collars (also known as ‘choke-chains’ or ‘check-chains’) should never be used on an unattended dog, as they’re a training tool, not a real collar. – A little bit of time, and a little bit of patience.

What to Do

* Your aim here is to accustom your dog to the lead a little bit at a time, keeping him well within his comfort zone at each step of the way. Because he’s already got a fear of the leash, some discomfort in its presence is to be expected, but watch out for signs of extreme fear:

* hyperventilating,

* drooling,

* submissive urination,

* rolling eyes (often showing the whites).

So step one: remember to take baby steps at all times!

* If he’s really afraid of the leash, you’ll need to accustom him to it very slowly indeed.

* Practice leaving it out in full view, preferably in ‘fun’ places: next to his food bowl, in preferred play areas, near his bed.

* Once he’s stopped reacting to the sight of it, introduce the leash to him in a more active manner. You can do this by wrapping it around your hand as you pet and groom him.

* Hold the leash in your hand as you prepare his food; sit by him and stroke him, with the leash wrapped around your hand, as he eats. Keep this up until he’s stopped showing any signs of discomfort – it may take some time, but remember that you’re aiming to accustom him comfortably to the leash. Any rushing is counterproductive.

* When he’s not showing any signs of nervousness with this level of progress, you can start attaching the leash to his collar.

* Put him in a sit-stay, using a firm, calm voice, and clip the leash on. Don’t make a big deal out of it: your dog will take his emotional and psychological cues from your behavior. If you act as though it’s not a big deal, he’ll follow your lead.

* Once the leash is on, give him some time to get used to the sensation of something hanging off his neck. He may get a little panicky at this stage, and start pawing at his neck and trying to rub the leash off along the ground. If he’s showing signs of nervousness, distract him with a game: a short game of tug-o’-war (providing he knows to drop the toy when you’ve had enough) is a good idea; if he can run without getting tangled in the leash, play a short game of fetch; or, if the two of you are outside in a safely enclosed area, you can go for a short walk.

* Don’t attempt to touch the leash at this stage, just let him walk around freely. – Take the leash off after five minutes or so, and praise him lavishly for being such a good boy.

* Give him a couple of small, tasty treats, and lots of petting. – Repeat these last three steps several more times before progressing to the next level: you want to give him plenty of opportunities to get used to the sensation of the leash itself before you start using it to control his walking.

* The more positive associations he forms with the leash (which he will do through the games, walks, and treats while wearing it), the better for his progress.

Next, it’s time for a short obedience-training session while he’s wearing the leash. Five minutes is plenty: practice a sit-stay and the recall command (‘come’) while he’s wearing the leash. This will reinforce your authority and leadership, and remind him that he’s still expected to obey you while wearing the leash. – When he’s readily obeying your commands with the leash on, you can take him for a short walk while he’s wearing it. If he’s jumpy, do not reinforce his nervousness by rewarding him with attention. Simply ignore him and carry on walking. Remember, he takes his cues from you, so keep calm and wait for it to pass.

If, at any point, you feel that he’s simply too nervous to proceed (for example, if he’s still panicking after three or four minutes of walking on the leash), go back to the level at which he was last 100% comfortable.

Wait a few days at this stage before attempting to proceed. Things to Remember

* Remember to be patient! Don’t attempt to rush your dog’s progress: using force is counterproductive to your end goal.

* You’re teaching him to relax and be calm around the leash -

* if you get stressed or frustrated with his lack of progress, he’ll be able to tell, and his anxiety levels will increase, not decrease.

* Remember not to indulge his nervousness or coddle him if he plays up or gets nervous. If you react to his crying and trembling with petting and cooing, you are telling him that it’s OK to feel like that.

* If he’s nervous, either ignore it and carry on, or distract him with a game or short walk.

* If he’s still panic-stricken after three or four minutes, revert to the previous step and give it more time.

This should go without saying, but never correct or punish him for skittishness or nervous behavior – again, it’s counterproductive in the extreme.

By: Perry John

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

For more information on a variety of leash-related problems, as well as a detailed look at the whole spectrum of common canine behavioral problems, you may want to check out SitStayFetch. It’s a comprehensive training compendium for the responsible owner, and covers just about every topic you could ever need for building and maintaining a happy, healthy relationship with your dog. You can check out the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link:

Posted under SitStayFetch

Sit Stay Fetch Dog Training by Daniel Stevens helps you understand and deal with dog biting as reflected in this article by George Kane

How To Stop Dog Biting

Dog biting is the most serious dog behavior problem because of it’s possibility for very serious damage being done to people. Because of this it’s of incredible importance to make sure that your dog does not bite.

It’s important to start early. A dog learns most of it’s habits in it’s first four months of life. In these first four months it must learn how to hold back its biting instinct. Usually, puppies are taken away from their family so most of them are no longer taught by their mother dogs. So you have to be your puppies’ “Mother Dog.”

Depriving your dogs of the potential learning experiences they get from rolling, tumbling and playing with other puppies can be harmful. During play puppies are naturally biting one another anytime and anywhere. Out of that play, dogs can feel the effects of being bitten; henceforth, their biting instinct can gradually be inhibited. Interaction with other puppies must be freely given. Natural inhibition from biting can occur better without human intervention. Biting inhibition is best acquired by dogs out of natural experience.

Socialize your dogs with fellow dogs and other human beings in order for them to outgrow their fear of other animals and people. Take note if your dog is not socialized it is much more restless and distructive in the home.

Lack of socialization is the top reason why dogs bite. If the dogs are not socialized with children then a dog may not know how to react to the way children interact with dogs. Thus, while your pets are still in their puppy stages; introduce them to your kids and have your children befriend them.

Teach your dog to trust and respect you and your household members. Kicking, hitting, slapping the dog will erode the dogs’ trust in you as their masters. Nurture the trust and respect that a dog gives you. Once you are subjecting your dog to a rigid training, never scold or punish them about their mistakes and misconducts because the fault does not lie in them and they do not understand yelling.

Teaching the dog to bite an enemy who has illegally entered your residence can be possible if you give your dog friendly training through treats. Your command must be easily picked up by the dog. Its good conduct must immediately be rewarded.

A well trained dog can be a very effective house guard.

To learn more about how to stop your dog from biting please visit http://www.DogTraining-AtoZ.com where I write free dog training articles on a daily basis.

By: George Kane -

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

George Kane writes about how to Stop Dog Biting and about Dog Training Guides | Sit Stay Fetch at Dog Training A to Z.

Posted under SitStayFetch

Nancy Settecasi writes on how to prevent dog bites , and so does the sit stay fetch review

Dog Biting: How to Deal With and Prevent Dog Bites

Learn what to do if a dog is ready to attack you or if your dog has a history of attacking other dogs or people. This behavior should not be tolerated.

alt=”Dog Biting: How to Deal With and Prevent Dog Bites” />
Enlarge Image
Dog biting is a serious matter. If your dog bites someone, you are responsible for his behavior. There are many things you can do to keep your dog from biting.

• It is recommended that you introduce your dog to everything he may encounter before he is 6 months old. He should be socialized with other dogs, as well as people. He should also be introduced to different environments and be taught to deal with different situations, such as going to the vet.
• It’s not a good idea to play fight or play tug-of-war with your dog. Aggression on your part will lead to aggression on his part. If you want to train him to be a guard dog, there are more effective training methods.
• When trying to discipline your dog, it must be a group effort. Everyone residing in the household should know the training techniques to follow in order to maintain consistency. If everyone does not participate in this joint venture, the effort is hopeless. Consistency is key in training against dog biting.
• Spaying or neutering your dog can also reduce the probability of your dog biting.

If your dog is extremely aggressive, it is recommended that you hire an obedience trainer. NEVER send your dog out to be trained. Not all trainers are reputable. I had a friend who hired a trainer to come to her home to help her discipline her Rottweiler. When the dog snapped at the trainer, he gave the dog a swift kick in the ribs which made the dog yelp. He did this right in front of the owner. She didn’t react because she didn’t know what she should expect of a trainer. If he had the ordacity to do this in front of the owner, imagine what he would have done behind her back. Needless to say, the dog had broken ribs, my friend was out $300 and her dog problem was never resolved.

Be sure that when you hire a trainer, he or she will train your dog in your own home. If he is taught at a location other than your home, he will associate his good behavior with that location. A good trainer will involve you in the training process and have you perform the commands along side him.

How to avoid dog biting

• Never trust a dog you don’t know, no matter how friendly he may seem.
• Never run away from a dog. This will instigate a chase. If a dog has you cornered, stay perfectly still and avoid dead eye contact.
• Never attempt to take a bone or chew toy away from a dog.
• Never try to break up a dog fight by separating them with your hands. You can try squirting them with a hose or water in a spray bottle.
• Never touch a dog’s food while he’s eating.
• Stay away from chained dogs. They often feel resentment for being tied up and may attempt to attack.
• Make him comfortable with the grooming process at an early age.

If a dog is ready to attack

• Never run away. Stay still and remain quiet.
• Don’t make any sudden movements with your hands. The dog will acknowledge this as a threat.
• Avoid eye contact.
• The dog will eventually let down his guard and back off.
• At this point, you can slowly move away from the situation.

If you are being attacked

• Try to use anything in your possession as a barrier between you and the dog. You can use your sweater, a shopping bag, your pocketbook, a backpack, your shoe, etc.
• While you are creating this barrier, try to back yourself up into a safe area. A safe area could consist of climbing onto the hood or roof of a car, entering a gated area or climbing onto the kitchen table.

What to do if bitten by a dog

• Wash the wound with soap and water.
• Disinfect the wound with hydrogen peroxide or alcohol and cover it with a bandage.
• See a doctor or go to the hospital within 24 hours of the initial bite. If the dog broke skin, you will probably need a Tetnus shot. You may also need to take antibiotics to ward off infection. A dog bite can develop into something quite serious if it is not properly treated within the first 24 hours.
• Report the bite to your local animal control center.

Remember, dog biting is a serious issue that involves serious consequences for both you and your dog. Don’t let ignorance place you in a position of having to get rid of your dog or worse, having him put to sleep.

Nancy Settecasi, Owner of Happy K-9 Dog Care

Proud owner of Cookie and Skippy, Cocker Spaniels, Dog Lover

Happy K-9 Dog Care

By Nancy Settecasi Published: 5/31/2006

Posted under sit stay fetch review

My World Plus

Is it Multi Level Marketing? Network Marketing? Or the Power line Strategy of Pyramid selling.

Multi Level Marketing still leaves a bad taste in the mouth, while Pyramid selling was doomed to failure by design.

Network Marketing can be said to embrace a more radical approach, but rather unfortunately they all happen to be the same old vine in different new bottles.

Despite the history behind this type of marketing My World Plus is moving from success to success like the new companies marketing the 21^st century health fad chocolates.

In my humble opinion, the success of My World Plus must be its product structure.

Lets us forget about the Multi-level or Network marketing Compensatory programs, but concentrate on the immediate PURCHASING POWER  and Savings of a My World Plus membership:

Discount Membership Card – + – Monthly Coupons – + – Cash Back Shopping

• Discount Membership Card

With MyWorldPLUS membership, comes a MyWordPLUS Discount Membership Card that can be used to save money at over 175,000 retail merchants WORLDWIDE!

• Monthly Coupons (USA only)

MyWorldPLUS membership enables the member to print out coupons from Brand Name manufacturers that can used at any of over 100,000 grocery stores around the country!

• Cash Back Shopping

MyWorldPLUS membership enables the member to earn up to 20% cash back at any of over 600 online stores, including Target, Sears, Macy’s and MORE!

NO FANCY, OUT OF THE REACH, COSTLY PRODUCTS

My World Plus has created a situation where anyone, just anyone can get a cash back discount on every single purchase they make, whether it be an hamburger, a roll of toilet paper, or a movie ticket.  This and this alone is enough to keep every member happy, because it would more than recover the monthly membership fee, it also helps them SAVE quite a tidy sum over the period of a normal 30 day month.

The need to create a network and depend upon the commission one may earn through the sales made by others, to earn a profit is no more a criterion.

IT IS A HUGE BONUS, if the member is prepared to spend some time do a little bit of work and EARN quite a bit in commission on sales other members make.

The GUARANTEE lies in the obvious, that every member would be making purchases in their own right.

When you combine the savings with the 9 levels of infinity bonuses and bonus pools, the MyWorldPlus business just makes good common sense.

My World Plus is a winner! It helps us ignore all the negative experiences and publicity of Multi Level Marketing, even though it is an MLM venture.

Visit any of the following websites sign up with just your email address and take a tour, you will not be disappointed.

• http://noelben.MyWorldResults.com
• http://noelben.MyWorldPower.com
• http://noelben.OneLineBuilder.com
• http://noelben.BuildVertical.com 
• http://noelben.MyWorldMoms.com

Noel Benjamin D’Costa.

Posted under Internet Marketing, Multi Level Marketing, Network Marketing